After thirteen months of uninterrupted declines, the polished diamond market recorded a month that did not fall. According to Rapaport's August 4 news release, the Rapaport Trade Diamond Index posted flat-to-positive figures across all four benchmark sizes in July, the first such month since March 2025. It is a modest result in absolute terms, but for a trade that has priced only in one direction for over a year, direction matters more than magnitude. Dealers who have spent five quarters marking memo goods down at each restock now have, for the first time, a reason to hold a quote rather than shave it.
The pointer sizes lead
The smaller commercial goods did the most work. RAPI rose 1.6 percent for 0.30-carat diamonds. The 0.50-carat index increased 1.8 percent, its best month since March 2025. The 3-carat index held its ground with a 0.2 percent uplift. That pattern, with the pointer sizes recovering first and the larger goods merely stabilizing, is consistent with a restocking cycle beginning at the retail-volume end of the market rather than at the top. Pointer goods are what turn on a jeweler's counter through a normal week: bridal center stones under a carat and the fill-in sizes that clear fastest when a store writes its fall order. When those move first, it reads as working inventory being replaced, not speculative buying.
The gap between the 1.8 percent print on half-carats and the 0.2 percent on threes is the whole story in one line. A half-carat moving nine times as fast as a three-carat tells a dealer that confidence is returning from the bottom up, and that anyone sitting on large certificated goods should not read July as their turn yet.
Supply discipline, not demand
The recovery is a function of supply discipline, not a demand surge. De Beers reported that second-quarter rough diamond sales for its three sights totaled 7.1 million carats, down from 7.6 million carats in the same period a year earlier. Second-quarter production, by contrast, was up 88 percent year over year at 7.8 million carats. Producing far more than it sold, the miner chose to hold rough back and let the polished pipeline clear, which is the mechanism behind the index finding a floor.
The revenue line shows how deliberate that restraint was. Sales revenue from the three Q2 sights totaled $665 million, a 44 percent drop from $1.2 billion a year earlier, and the per-carat average sales price fell roughly 37 percent, from $174 to $110. A miner does not take a 44 percent revenue cut and a 37 percent price cut by accident. It takes it to avoid flooding a pipeline that cannot absorb the goods. For the manufacturing middle, cheaper rough at the sight is the precondition for polished margins to stop bleeding, which is what lets the RAPI print turn.
Where prices sit
On the retail-facing side, the numbers give a clear reference point. A 1-carat natural round in the G-H color, VS2 clarity, Excellent cut sweet spot is worth $4,000 to $6,000 in July, with a market median of $4,850. Lab-grown stones of the same specification run $800 to $1,500, median $1,060, which is 75 to 80 percent below natural. That spread has been remarkably stable through the natural downturn, which undercuts the argument that lab-grown pricing tracks natural pricing in any tight way. The two markets are moving on their own supply dynamics. A jeweler quoting both across the same case is effectively running two businesses: one whose floor is set by a producer holding rough, and one whose price keeps sliding on manufacturing capacity that has no such discipline behind it.
The retail backdrop
The trade context is not uniformly positive. Signet declared a $0.35 dividend with a July 24 ex-date while continuing to work through a restructuring that includes roughly 100 store closures and the shuttering of its James Allen banner. A specialty retailer closing digital and physical doors while the polished index steadies is a reminder that a price floor is not the same as a demand recovery. When the largest specialty jeweler trims roughly 100 doors and folds a digital banner, that is capacity leaving the counter side of the pipeline even as the rough side tightens. The store rationalization sits inside a broader retail reset covered in this week's industry report.
There is a fresh cost layer arriving on top of it. New US tariffs of 10 to 12.5 percent took effect on gemstone and jewelry imports from India, Hong Kong, China, Australia, Colombia, and Thailand, with loose stones from the EU, Cambodia, Indonesia, and Taiwan exempted. India cuts the majority of the world's polished, so a double-digit duty at that door lands on the same pointer goods that just posted the July gain. The diamond stabilization is also one leg of a broader firming across the trade this week, alongside a gold tape pushing toward $4,200 and a Swiss export rebound, both tracked in the weekly market wrap.
What to watch
The open question is durability. Ending a thirteen-month slide with a single flat-to-positive month is meaningful, but it is one data point. The mechanism holding the floor is producer restraint, and De Beers cannot sit on an 88 percent production increase indefinitely. If rough supply returns to the market before retail demand strengthens, the July stabilization could prove a pause rather than a turn. The August RAPI print, and the size of De Beers' next sight, will say which.
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